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Preview of Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017: Notes from the atelier

16 Wednesday Aug 2017

Posted by in Fashion & Style, Publication: Mint Lounge

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Published in Mint Lounge

As the Lakme Fashion Week takes off in Mumbai today, here are five designers to look out for and the causes they express through their collections

Eco warrior: Chola by Sohaya Mishra

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Mumbai-based Mishra has worked with a monochrome palette, which she feels “leaves space for thoughtful interpretation and encourages conversations on the beauty of contrast”. “Black and white, two opposing forces yet complementary, work together to bring balance, inherent to the concept of sustainability,” she says in an email interview. This dualism is woven into her dialogue on sustainability. For the collection, Mishra is working with Recca, a recycled cotton fabric sourced from Tamil Nadu’s Anandi Enterprises, an organization that supplies organic cotton. The collection consists of recycled twills in herringbone and check weaves. The recycled cotton is soft and is different in texture from the light weight organic cotton she has used previously. The movement is forged by a social media initiative, run with the hashtag ‘#RestartFashion’, intended to educate consumers about the consequences of fast fashion and benefits of using post-consumer waste.

Master of the weave: Sanjay Garg, Raw Mango

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Delhi-based Garg’s latest collection, “Angels” or “Cloud People”, opens Lakmé Fashion Week (LFW) this season, with an off-site showcase at the Royal Opera House in Mumbai. It highlights the softness of white with delicate chikankari on Bengal mul, zardozi and handwoven brocade. “The angel motif adds a new vocabulary to chikankari, which traditionally features florals and paisley motifs. In this case, it was about questioning the use of chikankari, as almost everything seen today is a diluted derivative. The chikan work in this collection is incredibly fine and delicate.” Garg recommends viewing the garments closely to examine the insides and details. What you’re likely to discover is soft feathers and clouds of angels in flight.

Bender of Norms: Anaam by Sumiran Kabir Sharma

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Delhi-based Sumiran Kabir Sharma’s collection is inspired by Sonagachi, the red light district in Kolkata. “Our collection, ‘Sonagachi’, represents an unstoppable, unbeatable army of warriors from the infamous district, those who march headfirst in flowy uniforms. Fierce, nameless, ageless, genderless silhouettes representing the collective strength and a call for identity, respect and recognition,” says Sharma. He goes for a representative colour palette with grey, black and earthy browns. The material used is suiting fabric, which is conventionally menswear fabric used for uniforms or corporate clothing. Drapes and patterns co-exist to form unique silhouettes, dotted with epaulettes and stitch detailing. He asks that you “come prepared to view it with equality and acceptance”.

Nostalgia artist: Eká by Rina Singh

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Inspired by old, discarded sketchbooks and undone artworks, Delhi-based designer Rina Singh’s theme embraces unfinished techniques. She creates a patchwork of artisanal, aged textiles, in a subtle aesthetic of Gandhian India. “I like to use the feeling of familiarity as opposed to sharp, untouched starched clothes. I like to present the clothes with a feeling of being washed and touched by hand, almost like it has been a part of your wardrobe already,” says Singh in an email interview. She looked to late artist Amrita Sher-Gil for inspiration, and also reached out to activist-author Arundhati Roy and artist Mithu Sen, to ask them questions about their choices and mementos in clothing.

In this collection, you will find monotones of nude with washed-down teal, indigo and blush pink. Faded shades of cement, iron and charcoal “lend a sepia-tinted veneer”. Visualize unfinished floral motifs on jamdani silk wool, block-printed textiles in art mosaic, and embroidery in unspun wool, silk and cotton yarns.

Upcycling advocate: Doodlage by Kriti Tula

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Delhi-based Doodlage started with the idea of being able to use scraps from the garment industry and to work around fabric defects to create limited-edition collections. Tula has collaborated with Conserve India, a Delhi-based organization that re-purposes used polybags, discarded seat belts and tyre tubes. They will present together on the second day of the five-day event of LFW; the day is dedicated to themes of sustainability. “Upcycling industrial waste is the central idea of our brand. Each garment is created using industrial scraps, defected fabric and end-of-the-line fabrics which are all a part of pre-consumer waste that often end up in massive quantities of landfill,” says Tula. The collection for LFW, “Dreams and Dystopia”, addresses the chaos and distress in current political and social situations. “What we need is a call to action. To find the strength to push for change and to go beyond likes and shares on social media,” she says.

Deep tones of navy, maroon, sap green are combined with light under-tones of pastel blue and steel grey. “A layer of patchwork and prints representing complex city grids is superimposed with whimsical floral details,” says the designer. Doodlage employs slogans as part of its fashion vocabulary. “Clothing is a means of self-expression and slogans allow you to be more vocal and expressive,” says Tula, of the typographic design employed in her fashion line.

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Have The Bag And Eat It Too!

27 Saturday May 2017

Posted by in Fashion & Style, Publication: Mint Lounge

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Published in Mint Lounge, Saturday May 27, 2017
(Additional images and content used for this post)

If you eat meat, stop reading now. If you are often accused of being a grass-eater, carry on. The eureka moment, when you realize that if you don’t eat it, you shouldn’t wear it, is accompanied by a sense of sartorial discomfort. In India, while designers flirt with the idea of cruelty-free fashion, it’s not all-encompassing. Satin clutches and beaded pouches aside, where do you find the sophisticated bag, the kind with fashion lineage and net worth, the bag that speaks a million dollars with a slight flash of its label? Where do you find a bag that isn’t nouveau riche and one which shows that you care? It may sound noble, but saying no to leather isn’t glamorous when your options are polyurethane.

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Stella McCartney’s #FalabellaBox in wicker.

In 2001, Stella McCartney, a life-long vegetarian and a supporter of the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, took her lifestyle choice and made it a sustainable business. The British designer doesn’t use leather or fur in any of her high-end fashion products. They are cool, edgy and modern and keep the good politics alive, one animal at a time. It actually mimics leather so beautifully that you wouldn’t know the difference, unless your eye picks out the giveaway trademark metal edging (and really, with that price tag, it will keep society from judging you on the basis of your bag).

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Matt & Nat’s ‘Parallel’ Handbag, worn as a briefcase or cross-body bag.

While McCartney’s classic Falabella handbag (distinguished by a braided chain detail) packs a punch, the Canadian company, Matt & Nat (Materials and Nature), came as a complete eye-opener. When it arrived in the mail (after the whole customs shindig), the vegan bag itself was sleek and functional, but what the “live-beautifully” product said was that the lining was made with 100% recycled plastic bottles (clocked at approximately 21 bottles per bag). The label is made from recycled cork, the price tag moonlights as a bookmark. They have introduced recycled bicycle tyres in their collection and on Earth day, their Instagram post noted that they have recycled over three million plastic bottles to create the linings of their bags. Unlike cheaper man-made materials, this bag lasts until you tire of it, without any difference in texture or appearance.

While their site does not publicize it, the founders are of Indian origin: Inder Bedi launched the company in 1995 after moving to Montreal to go to university and attempted to go vegan. He found his options limited, so he set out to become a game changer. Five years later, Manny Kohli, another passionate vegan, joined him, and is currently president and chief executive officer. Their office lives by the philosophy, including having monthly vegan potluck meals.

 

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Gunas bag and wallet.

Take another instance of vegetarian-turned-vegan Sugandh Agrawal, who grew up in India and now lives in New York. Her experience with raw hide, while interning at a local handbag design firm that specialized in exotic skin handbags and shoes, led her to start her own line of vegan fashion wear, Gunas.

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Grain’s stirrup tote bag.

Unlike man-made leather, ahimsa leather, which has become a topic of serious discussion in India over the last few years, is made from the hide of dead animals. Grain, started by Avinash Bhalerao in 2014, offers unisex bags. While no certification is provided, they work with 30-year-old tanneries that recycle the skin of dead animals into leather, which is the closest you can get to the real thing, without actually harming the animal.

Brands like Guess are dipping into the man-made leather initiatives—but it wouldn’t be amiss to begin thinking about sustainability, and going all the way while you are at it. It is a process of transition, as model Renee Peters explains on Ethica, an ethical fashion blog: “The hardest thing about going completely green has been doing it while being a member of the fashion industry and wanting to express my personal style. I have to work harder at curating my own look….” Go ahead, make a difference, one bag at a time. There is #NoRheson to say no.

 

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Stella McCartney’s Falabella wallets and bags made from eco alter-nappa and the oversized Stella Popper. 

Where To Find It:
Stella McCartney
Matt and Nat
Angela Roi
Gunas
Freedom of Animals
Ethica
Modavanti
Rheson

Skirting The Issue: Is the future of fashion ungendered?

17 Wednesday May 2017

Posted by in Brand Watch, Fashion & Style, Features & Trends, Publication: Mint Lounge

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Published in Mint Lounge, Saturday May 13, 2017 (Future of Design special edition).
(Additional images added below for this blog post)

We have had women in tuxedos and men in skirts. But the new ‘genderless’ direction in the global fashion world might further dissolve the idea of binary identities

designskirt-k2mC--621x414@LiveMintAn image from ‘Vogue India’s’ May issue, guest-edited by Mario Testino. The editorial, titled ‘Role Play’, attempts to ‘challenge gender with fashion’. Photo: Courtesy Mario Testino for Vogue India/May 2017

Earlier this week, Emma Watson received the first gender-neutral award for Best Actor (Beauty And The Beast) at the MTV Movie & TV Awards. “It says something about how we perceive the human experience,” she said. The award was presented by Asia Kate Dillon, who plays TV’s first gender non-binary character (Taylor, on Billions).

Like other recent events, this added to the ongoing conversation on gender-fluidity.

For a culture like ours, with its thrust on uber masculinity and coy femininity, reconciling to this phenomenon may be shocking, but not impossible. While one knows androgyny to be the combination of masculine and feminine characteristics, ambiguity in gender could be a lifestyle, sexual or style choice.

Louis Vuitton_Jaden Smith - high res

Celebrities such as Miley Cyrus have identified themselves as pansexual, but perhaps it is young actor-rapper Jaden Smith’s bold outlook that has fired up the imagination. Will Smith’s son is seen wearing a skirt as part of Louis Vuitton’s Series 4 (Spring/Summer 2016) campaign about a heroine and the multiple facets to her personality. The brand’s creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière, believes Smith “represents a generation that has assimilated the codes of true freedom, one that is free of manifestos and questions about gender. Wearing a skirt comes as naturally to him as it would to a woman who, long ago, granted herself permission to wear a man’s trench or a tuxedo”.

Androgynous roots

le-smoking-3Le Smoking, Yves Saint Laurent by Helmut Newton

Worldwide, sartorial acceptance tipped when the founders of two path-breaking French haute couture houses, Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, gave women trousers and tuxedos in the early and mid- 20th century, respectively. Many male music legends have flirted with everything from make-up and heels to ruffles and florals, but it was David Bowie (in his sexually ambiguous Ziggy Stardust persona) and Prince (in his flamboyant Purple Rain-era) who cut the sartorial cord with their seminal style statements. More recently, American hip hop artiste Young Thug wore a dress for his album cover, while British footballer David Beckham has been spotted in nail paint and a sarong.

Historically, pre-colonial India saw no issue in dressing up its men, particularly royalty; the traditional male outfits of Gujarat and Rajasthan are adorned with colours, mirrors and gathers, while drapes like shawls, anarkalis, lungis, kurtas, salwars and churidars have been a long-standing part of India’s unisex fashion grammar. Even as the idea trickles down—Tridha, a school in Mumbai, has genderless uniforms (a short kurta students can wear with lowers of their choice)—in a country that lends exaggerated importance to binary sexuality, fashion is setting a new pace for a forward-thinking society.

Beyond binaries

Rajesh Pratap Singh - low res option 2A model wearing Rajesh Pratap Singh.

Designer Rajesh Pratap Singh, who has an affinity towards androgyny, finds the audience for unisex clothing limited. “As women found independence and emancipation once again in India, wearing men’s clothing is considered stylish in most urban areas, but it doesn’t hold true for most parts of the country,” he points out.

What is true though is that modern silhouettes for the local landscape increasingly tend to be sleeker, deconstructed or fluid, shaped according to will, body type and occasion. From anarkalis to dhoti pants, from cholis to shirt-blouses, we have made a shift in styles, and increased the functional element of formal wear. But are women able to take the leap to wearing perhaps a tuxedo to an Indian wedding? Mumbai-based designer Payal Khandwala, whose lines for women are largely anti-fit, says: “It (gender-fluid dressing) will be a parallel movement. The bright side is that it makes us question the male gaze we have taken for granted and re-examine our preoccupation with ‘pretty’ and ‘hyper-sexualized’ clothing for women.”

Unisex clothing creates ambiguity towards age, shape and size, naturally defying the restrictions imposed, stereotypes perpetuated and social comment invited by accentuating and fitted garments. While many designers locally have nailed the anti-fit trend, there have been attempts, such as the “Ungendered” clothing line released online last year by Zara, that faced flak for its unimaginative designs. Unisex outfits shouldn’t be drab, shapeless or colourless—rather, they should be a celebration of clothing that is chic while being free of conservative parameters.

38_RoryA model wearing Gucci.

Women in menswear may be de rigueur, but men in women’s clothing is certainly up for exploration. A key designer of genderless fashion, J.W. Anderson’s Fall 2013 collection sent a male model on the runway in ruffled shorts and knee-high boots, showing off muscular, hairy legs. Singer Pharrell Williams, who likes Chanel necklaces, has starred in the couture house’s Gabrielle bag campaign this year. International luxury brands like Gucci (whose fluid vision under creative director Alessandro Michele has been touted as inspired and sound) have “genderless” models—those without an associated gender—on the runway, also unifying men’s and women’s fashion weeks. Michele stated last year, “It’s the way I see the world today.”

It was a “fluid-packed” fall 2016, with Burberry harking back to Bowie-esque ruffled shirts for men and military-style jackets (also seen in Givenchy’s campaign) for women, along with gender-neutral trench coats.

Screen Shot 2017-05-18 at 2.34.33 PMA model wearing J.W. Anderson.

Bungalow 8 founder Maithili Ahluwalia is unimpressed by men in skirts. “It is not a natural evolution, it is fashion. A man’s body is structured differently and it is a bit limiting to think that what works for one may work for the other. It should be a mindset over a sartorial choice, not a surface-level relationship with fashion. Would a man wear gender-fluid clothing to work, particularly if he works in a bank?” she asks. Possibly, if he is anything like actor Ranveer Singh, who has turned red-carpet dressing on its head with his penchant for aggressive experimentation—of course, creative professions do allow for more sartorial freedom.

Delhi designer Ujjawal Dubey, founder of label Antar-Agni, whose styles are “androgynous and flattering to both the sexes, avoiding stark lines and labels between genders”, believes India is primed for change. So does Sumiran Kabir Sharma, whose new label Anaam is said to “dissolve all stereotypes”. Sharma works as “a silhouette generation artist, not focusing on the physical and the biological part of the human body that defines gender”. According to him, going genderless is not a passing phase—“it is definitely the future of fashion”.

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A model in an Anaam piece.

Kolkata-based designer Kallol Datta, who started out making (and wearing) gender-neutral clothing, is now moving towards “sexless clothing, where there is no acknowledgement of gender”. “I’ve favoured all-enveloping shapes and certain proportions when layering pieces of clothing…there is a blurring of lines with these shapes.”

Going genderless

If the male gaze changes, so may the female gaze. In Tokyo, following the explosive trend of “genderless kei” (kei means style), “genderless boys” have appeared on the scene since 2015. The popular Japanese idols tend to be slim-bodied, with dyed hair, make-up and nail polish, coloured contact lenses, and attention-grabbing outfits. They are not necessarily gay or trying to be like women, they are rejecting gender norms and establishing a new yardstick of style. It’s likely inspired by the Korean term ulzzang (“best face”), a common beauty standard for both men and women derived from the “flawless” K-Pop idols.

In America, Marilyn Manson’s genderless Mechanical Animals cover set the tone years ago but today, gender-neutral models like Rain Dove have gained supermodel status. Dove’s Instagram page says: “I’m not a Boy. I’m not a Girl either. I am I.” And further, “Sometimes I like lace panties. Sometimes I like briefs. It’s my body…. And I’ll cover it however I damn please.”

Today, numerous designers worldwide offer unisex lines of clothing, and stores like Selfridges in London stock an “Agender Fashion Without Definition” collection across three storeys, suggesting that the trend is more than that—it’s a new way of life.

Fashion should cater seamlessly to one’s individuality, without leaning towards homogeneity. Khandwala agrees: “At its core, what one wears must be a democratic decision that comes from a place of honesty and self-evaluation. The impetus cannot be external and certainly not because it is a fashion movement.”

Is the potential dissolution of gender a fantasy of the future or a reality of today? As predefined roles get blurry, so does the way we dress. And we should find our voice in that freedom. Worldwide, as socio-politico-religious mindsets get narrower, perhaps it is fashion’s lot to expressively push back as the non-conformist and heterogenous “genderless uniform” of a truly inclusive and free-spirited society where it is, literally, best face forward.

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How we got here

A brief sartorial history of the blurring of gender lines

1938 Photo Schall at La PausaCoco Chanel

1910s: Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel changed women’s relationships with their bodies and ways of life by introducing them to trousers and jersey sportswear.

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Katharine Hepburn

1930s: Katharine Hepburn’s path-breaking attachment to men’s shirts bought secretly from the back of New York’s Brooks Brothers store and Marlene Dietrich’s seminal moment kissing a woman on screen while wearing a bow tie and top hat.

1960s: Yves Saint Laurent’s (muse Violeta Sanchez) “Le Smoking” tuxedo suit for women pioneered the modern-day power suit; Mick Jagger performed in Hyde Park in a white “man’s dress” designed by Mr Fish.

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David Bowie

1970s: Patti Smith’s obvious androgyny, Jane Fonda’s bold red-carpet moments and David Bowie’s sexually ambiguous Ziggy Stardust persona triggered cultural shifts.

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Grace Jones

1980s: Feminine Prince and masculine Grace Jones set the tone for blurry gender lines. Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo’s ambiguous collections set the tone for the future.

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Marilyn Manson ‘Mechanical Animals’ cover

2000s: Marilyn Manson appeared genderless on the ‘Mechanical Animals’ cover.

Sacha’s Way

11 Thursday Dec 2014

Posted by in Fashion & Style, Interviews (All), Interviews: Lifestyle, Publication: Verve Magazine

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Vervemagazine.in December 2014
Photograph by Shovan Gandhi

Sacha-Mendes-Shovan-Gandhi

From being a writer and fashion stylist for fashion publications to curating a resortwear shop in Goa, Sacha Mendes’ journey has been interesting, to say the least. As she puts it, it started with a small shop of cushion covers by her mother, two racks of clothes by her friends (SavioJon and Anuj Sharma), and a few jars of orange-peel cookies made by a friendly neighbour, all in the comfort of her father’s ancestral home. “It was never meant to be a store, just a cabinet of curiosities to amuse us.” Today, Sacha’s Shop in Panjim, Goa is an eclectic collection of style goodies that a local can rely upon and a traveller makes it a point to always check out. You would be likely to find deconstructed trousers made into a dress, leather puppets, paper birds, and cross-stitch towels.

Sacha’s Shop appears as a pop-up in Mumbai at The Vintage Garden (Patkar Bungalow, Turner Road, Bandra), December 12-14 (11am-7pm) with resortwear for men and women, furniture, jewellery, table linen, art and design books, home décor, floral arrangements and a range of collectibles.

A quick chat with Sacha Mendes:

Designers in store (Goa) SavioJon, Tilla, Small Shop, 11:11, Maku, Design By Example, Paromita Banerjee, Aish Naushad Ali, Runaway Bicycle, Aavaran, Hot Pink Cool Blue, Ninoshka, Not Like You, Ritika Sachdeva, Pretty Stoned, Lisa Jackal, Labrador

Greatest inspiration “Mostly it’s people I meet, dear friends, people whose work I look up to, people I learn from, people I fall in love with, and family.”

The idea “As I always say, it wasn’t a conscious decision. It was an experiment of filling a space with pieces that I love.”

The greatest challenge that comes with a start-up “There is no great challenge. There is just a journey, an adventure.”

The best part about being an entrepreneur “You can express yourself through your work.”

Your dream “Is to live on a farm and self educate my children!”

A change post Sacha’s Shop “My relationship with time.”

Harshest criticism “I don’t think I’ve ever received any harsh criticism. My friends and family are great for getting me on track, and keeping it real, but they always do it with love.”

Favourite fashion trend “Oversized clothes.”

A personal style quotient you swear by “To each their own. I don’t believe in dictating style tips to anyone, and I expect the same.”

Looking forward to in 2015… “New adventures.”

Hermes: Open House

17 Friday Oct 2014

Posted by in Brand Watch, Publication: Verve Magazine

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Vervemagazine.in October 2014

‘Cat: Where are you going?
Alice: Which way should I go?
Cat: That depends on where you are going.
Alice: I don’t know.
Cat: Then it doesn’t matter which way you go.’
― Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland

Wouldn’t it be wonderful, if we could shop aimlessly and with gay abandon, stumbling upon the things that most impressed us and made us merry? How lovely it would be if fashion, art, architecture and technology came together in a happy mix, giving us a sublime, subterranean world of exploration.

Illustrator Pierre Marie, who has also previously designed scarves for Hermès, worked with Bali Barret to design an interactive online shopping space in a rich illustrative style. As they describe it, it is Hermès’ first ‘dedicated virtual home for its ebullient women’s silk collections.’ The clever bit lies in the fact that the virtual home is in a constant state of change (taking into account the time of day and weather!), which the visitor discovers while wandering freely around, exploring the myriad rooms: a treasure chamber, a saloon, a cinema, a colour mixing kitchen…and even a boys’ bedroom. And in there lies a treasure trove of over six hundred models of silk squares, shawls, twillys, scarves and stoles.

Wherever you are in the world, at any point of time, using your computer, tablet or smartphone, you can explore this world and find the perfect scarf, based on colour, design, or material (silk/cashmere). Discover ideas for knotting a scarf, while you are at it! It launches on lamaisondescarres.com.

Branding Your Bag

15 Thursday May 2014

Posted by in Brand Watch, Fashion & Style, Publication: Verve Magazine

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Published: Vervemagazine.in May 2014

The 160-year-old brand, Louis Vuitton, allows you to customise their products in 3 different ways. Verve guides you through the process….

Louis Vuitton personalisation

I was floored when I heard that a gentleman had a custom-created Louis Vuitton case made just so that he could carry his mother’s homemade apple pie around in his travels. How does one go about customising a Louis Vuitton product? There are three distinct ways in which you can do so:

1. Special Order

WHAT This is a special creation, made specifically for people who want a custom Louis Vuitton case to carry something special like a guitar or their mother’s homemade apple pie, a baby bottle holder or a hair dresser’s trunk, or the famous Baroda tea case. With a specific concept in mind, you can sit with a brand representative (expect four-five meetings) and arrive at a sketch of the product you would like created. It is most likely based on something you have seen. You can then select the leather or canvas and choose the inside lining. Certain styles are non-negotiable. What that means is that certain styles can only be customized within boundaries, for instance, the Monogram canvas with gold fittings is linked to natural leather handles.
WHERE The order can be placed in any Louis Vuitton flagship store.
HOW One craftsman in France works on this piece from start to finish, and it can take up to six to eight months to complete.

2. Made to Order

WHAT It is a selection of products out of the Louis Vuitton permanent collection which are available for order in a selection of predefined exterior materials and interior linings. Any available product can be customized to some extent within the listed options.
WHERE The order can be placed in any Louis Vuitton store.
HOW This would take 1-3 months to complete.

3. Personalisation

(a) Hot Stamping
WHAT You can get a personalised ‘stamp’ on luggage tags, bags and wallets (depending on the style and material), at the time of purchase.
WHERE This can be done at the store level
PRICE There is no cost involved.

(b) Mon Monogram
WHAT You can create a personalised monogram within the Louis Vuitton template. There are options designed according to the style of the bag. This can be done with initials as well. They are generally vertical stripes of varying colours, taking off from how royal families have their own colour codes.
WHERE This is done on a few predefined products before purchase. You can use the computerised simulation app at a flagship store.
HOW This takes six to eight weeks to get done and the colour won’t scrape off. The application will also give you the exact delivery date and time once you are done making your choice.
PRICE There is an additional cost for this.

(c) Hand painting
WHAT You can get your bag hand painted.
HOW This can be done at the time of, or even after purchase, though the latter depends on the condition of the canvas.
PRICE There is no cost involved.

Like Second Skin

23 Wednesday Apr 2014

Posted by in Fashion & Style, Publication: Verve Magazine

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Published: Vervemagazine.in April 2014

How do you go about getting a swimsuit customised to your tastes and body type? Shivan & Narresh are first designer brand to do so. Find out how…

Shivan Narresh Bespoke Personalised Swimwear

The dapper designer duo is “selling confidence, not fancy bathing suits”. Shivan liked illustrating women in skimpy clothes, Narresh liked to paint with bold colours. Together they became the popular, and India’s first and only designer swimwear brand Shivan & Narresh. “Modest with cut and bold with a sense of colour” is their brand philosophy and they like to believe that it reflects the country’s cultural roots. Indian women are not built like European women, so it’s understood that they need a swimwear line that is made for their body type.

WHY
1. Based on the Indian consumer’s psychology, customisation has been key from the onset of Shivan & Narresh’s designs. They believe that in India, the consumers are spoilt for choice and there is a strong expectation to be able to custom-create something.

2. While in the West, women are forgiving of their bodies, in India women have for years hidden their bodies behind layers of clothing and with just a single layer, women begin to feel naked. There is a great deal of self-confidence involved in including a bathing suit in an Indian woman’s wardrobe.

3. You wear a bathing suit for yourself, not your friends – if you don’t love how you look in the mirror, you won’t buy it. So customisation has to be a part of their business plan to be sustainable.

4. Customisation within the ready-to-wear category gives risk-averse customers a chance to graduate into more evolved buyers, giving them the comfort zone to mature.

HOW

1. Ready-to-wear with micro-customisation via either colour or style.
Using a current available style as the base, you can add things like more coverage in the back, make the neck deeper, add straps, pads and underwires within the same style. Colour blocking, a trademark of the brand’s designs helps shift focus areas of the body away from weaker areas. Colour creates a mirage, and diagonal lines help the torso look slender.
It can be done online on www.shivanandnarresh.com or at a local store retailing their brand or at a pop-up in your city. (See upcoming city schedules below.)
There is a 20% customisation fee.

2. Their Handcraft service.
This is a one-of-a-kind piece, which will be only for you. You take an appointment with either designer (both may also be present) where they will take your measurements. A body suit (like a cat suit) will be made as per your measurements. You wear that and either designer sketches on the body suit in front of the mirror. You can guide them about what kind of a piece you would like and how this should be done. Then you sit with colour swatches and different quality of fabrics. You can choose from thin fabrics, experiencing something as light as second skin. Later the designers split open the bodysuit on the lines drawn, in mosaic puzzle pieces, using these pieces to make the pattern which comes back together like a glove. It becomes a perfect fit. Essentially in this case, everything is possible – it’s the purest form of body art. They say that they are the only swimwear brand in the world that practices this.
The process takes 4-6 weeks and involves 2-3 personalisation sittings.
It costs minimum 10 times the cost of a regular bathing suit.

WHERE
Each region has a different demand and all metros have customised swimsuits workshops. This also gives the designers insights into what works for different cities. For instance, in Bombay, where the emphasis is on healthier living, trikinis (one-piece with cutouts) and baring skin in the front are acceptable. In Delhi, where the purchases are lifestyle centric, they are experimental about the backs but not the fronts. Tier 2 cities, where there is great fashion hunger, are very experimental and accept the skimpiest of pieces.

Tentative pop-up schedule:
04 April: Bangalore
11th April: New Delhi
15th April: Chennai
18th April: Ahmedabad & Honeymoon Service at TAJ New Delhi
23rd-24th April: Mumbai
28th-29th April: Hyderabad
12th May: Surat
19th May: Mumbai

THE EXPERIENCE
“I’ve actually had a couple of pieces designed by the duo. Bespoke products to me signify true luxury.  Swimwear is one of those items of clothing where the fit and cut can make a world of a difference. The bespoke experience was addictive as I was advised on how to make my shoulders stand out, legs look longer and which colour combinations would work best on my skin. The other nice part is being able to make a couple of pieces that can be mixed, matched and layered to make different outfits for different occasions which comes in handy for a destination wedding or beach getaway. I’ve been utterly spoilt and can’t imagine having to buy swimwear off the rack!” – Amruda Nair, The Leela Hotels

Cover Girls: Kalki, Drashta & Natasha for Verve’s Annual Best Dressed Issue

10 Thursday Oct 2013

Posted by in Fashion & Style, Interviews (All), Interviews: Cover Stories, Interviews: Lifestyle, Publication: Verve Magazine

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Published: Verve Magazine, October 2013

KALKI Koechlin
For her unconcerned, quirky sense of fashion. And her enviable midriff

Screen Shot 2017-08-20 at 10.48.21 AM

WILL NEVER WEAR An animal print leotard.

STYLE SOULMATE Gwen Stefani.

SENTIMENTAL INHERITANCE My paternal grandmother was very stylish and a model when young. She introduced me to style when I was 14 and had tons of cool stuff from the ’50s. I particularly love this burgundy-coloured velvet suit with big, puffy shoulders.

BANISH FROM BOLLYWOOD Sequins! My eyes are getting blinded!

FAVOURITE FASHION MOMENT Last year, in Cannes, when I wore Sabyasachi with a headpiece. It felt very elegant and original.

INTIMIDATED BY THE FASHION OF…. New York. I went for the first time this summer. Everyone looked stunning…so effortlessly cool, straight out of a magazine cover.

SOMETHING WE DON’T KNOW ABOUT YOU…. I have fat ankles and chubby calves. No matter how much I run, it’s like God put cotton in them. Sabyasachi’s tight churidars simply won’t fit!

PLANNED DRESSER OR NOT? Not! I am a designer’s nightmare – I call them 24 hours before my appearance…asking for something amazing.

QUICK TRICKS TO ALTER THE LOOK OF THE SAME OUTFIT One popping out colour – red or pink shoes; a jacket; a bright bag. And I love hats! While I don’t much care for jewellery, I have one statement piece – a big Mother Mary cross, that’s like a piece of clothing in itself.

INDIVIDUAL DRESSING VERSUS TRENDS You can’t escape trends. It helps you discover new things – but it shouldn’t make you uncomfortable. And yet, your personality comes out in your styling – people judge you by the way you dress.

FAVOURITE DRESSING UP SONG OF THE MOMENT Bad Girls by MIA. It’s such a cool video – really gets me going.

A YOUNG DESIGNER YOU ARE IMPRESSED BY Nimish Shah. At his recent show, I loved his opening outfit – a burgundy velvet dress with white lace.

AN ETERNALLY FAVOURITE DESIGNER/LABEL Sabyasachi…and Urban Outfitters.

SOMETHING THAT DOESN’T WORK FOR YOU, BUT YOU WISH IT DID Sporty clothes, tracksuits…I wish I could be like Eminem!

SARI ESCAPADES I wear a lot more saris than people know – in my theatre circle. I like hand-woven, khadi and natural fabric.

SOMETHING NEW IN YOUR WARDROBE An army jacket with big pockets from Zara.

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DRASHTA Sarvaiya
For her combination of girlish femininity and androgynous toughness of spirit

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WILL NEVER WEAR An anarkali kurta.

STYLE SOULMATE Caroline Issa of Tank magazine and Because London.

SENTIMENTAL INHERITANCE My maternal grandmother’s jadau earrings made by a local jeweller in Palitana.

WOULD LIKE TO CHANGE IN BOLLYWOOD Garishness. I prefer old Hindi cinema – the ’60s films were stylish; today we consider their styles to be retro. In the future, our kids won’t consider the styling of films today retro or iconic. The character and originality is missing.

FAVOURITE FASHION MOMENT When Sarah Jessica Parker happened to see my collection in Paris and liked my clothes. She took my number from my agent – I missed meeting her, but loved that it happened.

SOMETHING WE DON’T KNOW ABOUT YOU…. I am a foolishly romantic person.

DRESSING EXPERIMENTS My dressing style depends upon my hair! With long hair I prefer bifurcated garments and trousers; with a short pixie cut I prefer more feminine silhouettes.

ETERNALLY FAVOURITE LABELS Lanvin, Etro (for their paisleys), Mary Katrantzou (for artistic prints) and Vivienne Westwood (for wedding gowns).

SOMETHING THAT DOESN’T WORK FOR YOU, BUT YOU WISH IT DID Micro-minis!

NEW IN YOUR WARDROBE A Marc Jacobs bag.

COMPLETELY AVOIDABLE Monogrammed bags!

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NATASHA Chib
For being a restaurateur with style

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SIGNATURE STYLE Somewhere between androgynous, street and tailored simplicity.

A FASHION NO-NO Clothes that are too tight.

STYLE SECRET THAT ALWAYS WORKS A scarf, an oversized light sweater and the colour black.

CURRENT WARDROBE FAVOURITE A floor-length grey cotton dress and the rediscovery of a red silk cape from Paris that is eons old.

RECENT SPLURGE A mini cream-coloured Chloe bag from Harrods.

FAVOURITE FASHION ERA I love the 1920s. It was so sophisticated while being completely frivolous at the same time. I’m a huge fan of Josephine Baker and she was an absolute icon and in her prime during that time.

AN OVERDONE TREND Oversized headbands and headpieces. I’m totally done with faux punk rock studs as well.

FASHION SOUL CITIES Paris and New York.

WARDROBE STAPLES A tailored jacket and a favourite white blouse for each day of the week.

WARDROBE TREASURES I only buy things that I absolutely love; it is rare that I pick stuff up out of need or necessity. For instance, I admire the way Balenciaga fits me, the unbelievable craftsmanship of my Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla pieces and the originality of prints of a David Szeto piece.

SENTIMENTAL INHERITANCE A very vintage emerald ring that my grandmother gave me.

Verve’s Best Dressed Issue 2012

15 Monday Oct 2012

Posted by in Fashion & Style, Interviews (All), Interviews: Lifestyle, Publication: Verve Magazine

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India’s Best Dressed List 2012
Text and Interviews by Sitanshi Talati-Parikh
Published: Volume 20, Issue 10, October, 2012
 

The eagerly awaited annual Hall of Fame for India’s Best Dressed women is finally here! There are some new entries on the list, some have been here before and then there are the Perennials – those who rarely put a sartorial step wrong.

(For the complete list of the best dressed women with interviews including the ones done by Shirin Mehta see Verve’s site.)

PAYAL KHANDWALA
For reinventing herself, but remaining true to form

 

A FASHION NO-NO
Wearing clothes that are two sizes too small, too tight, too short, too uncomfortable and especially with the wrong type of undergarments. Clothes have to work for you, not the other way around. It’s always nice to leave something to the imagination, a little mystery is nice.

 

WARDROBE STAPLES
Well-fitted pair of blue jeans, a long multipurpose scarf I can wear many ways, one comfortable pair of heels and a pair of flats, a Benarasi sari, palazzos, colour blocked separates to mix and match so I can curate my own wardrobe, one wide leather belt, aviators, a string of beads and some vintage silver jewellery.

 

STYLISH ICONS
Audrey Hepburn, Gayatri Devi.

 

YOUR FAVOURITE FASHION ERAS
The grace of the ’20s, the freedom of the ’70s with the androgyny of today.

 

KIND OF ART (ERA/STYLE) THAT YOU CONNECT WITH YOUR FASHION STYLE
Without a doubt abstract expressionism and minimalism. Dramatic but subtle at the same time.

 

AN OVERDONE TREND
Evening gowns, ballroom dressing and the eternal princess/doll hangover.

 

YOUR FASHION SOUL CITY
New York.

 

YOUR FASHION INSPIRATIONS
Orchestrating a palette of colour is central to my designing process, therefore especially art and some architecture. Tribal costumes and jewellery from across the world, origami and the minimalism of Japan, weaves and colours of India, flea markets and street fashion.

 

DO YOU LOVE DESIGNER LABELS OR HATE THEM?
I think it’s pointless being a slave of any brand. You must be your own brand. I don’t see the point in wearing something because someone made it, you must only buy it because you love it and it speaks to you in a special way.

 

===========

 

ANUSHKA MENON
For standing tall in her boots

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
Skinny jeans (jeggings) a loose tee and a pair of military boots.

 

YOUR CURRENT WARDROBE FAVOURITE
Faded and ripped denim shorts from Zara.

 

THE KIND OF ART/PHOTOGRAPHY YOU WOULD CONNECT WITH YOUR FASHION STYLE
Strong and edgy.

 

BLACK AND WHITE OR COLOUR?
Both, but I prefer black and white.

 

YOUR FAVOURITE FASHION ERAS
Now.

 

DRESSING RULE FOLLOWED BEFORE LEAVING HOME
Try not to look like you are going to the gym!

 

AN OVERDONE TREND
The geek look.

 

YOUR FASHION SOUL CITY
New York.

 

YOU’RE PASSIONATE ABOUT
Living.

 

=========

 

IRA DUBEY
For switching over from rock chic glam to just chic

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
Comfy stylish with a statement accessory, less is more. I play with bright colours or lots of whites, nudes and blacks, depending on the season. I don’t like figure-hugging clothes so I generally wear looser silhouettes teamed with tights or skinny jeans.

 

A FASHION NO-NO
Fur in Mumbai! Sequins from head to toe. Red lips and red nails with a red outfit.

 

A FASHION EXPERIMENT THAT WENT WRONG
Palazzo pants (wide leg trousers) that I tried elongating with sky-high heels – which still looked all wrong because of my petite frame.

 

FITNESS MANTRA
Yoga three to four times a week, a walk twice a week, eight hours of sleep, lots of water and a happy healthy positive state of mind.

 

A FASHION SECRET
A statement accessory on only one body part. Keep the outfit simple and focus on letting that accessory shine, balance the look with killer heels and an embellished clutch and you’re good to go.

 

DRESSING RULE BEFORE LEAVING HOME
Perfume, well-ironed outfit and quick hair fix (which needs nurturing as it is wavy, thick and long).

 

CHANGES IN YOUR DRESSING IN THE LAST YEAR
Simpler, cleaner, lot more nudes, hint of sequins, longer silhouettes, more feminine. Three years ago I was more rock star chic/glam – now that’s changed!

 

PRECIOUS INHERITANCES
A beautiful topaz antique ring my mother bought with her first pay cheque when she was 18 and my nani’s pearl and diamond earrings.

 

FAVOURITE DESIGNERS
Tom Ford, Stella McCartney, Anamika Khanna, Sabyasachi, Ritika Mirchandani, Chloe, Alexander Wang, Shahab Durazi.

 

==========

 

POORNA JAGANNATHAN
For adding a new dimension to the Bollywood look

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
Things that are really comfortable.

 

A FASHION SECRET – SOMETHING THAT WORKS LIKE A LUCKY CHARM
Double-sided tape: it lets me wear more edgy outfits without the risk of a wardrobe malfunction.

 

A FASHIONABLE MOMENT LAST YEAR
For the Filmfare awards, I wore this regal looking dress from Chanel’s Byzantine collection. The fit was impeccable.

 

YOUR FASHION CRINGE MOMENT
Delhi Belly success party. Thanks for taking me back!

 

RECENT SPLURGE BUY
A beautiful and classy dress from Drashta.

 

RECENT BARGAIN BUY
80 per cent off Charles Kammer shoes in Paris.

 

STYLISH FILMS
Hands down, the movie Grease. (Did I just date myself?)

 

FASHION ICONS/ INSPIRATIONS
I love Keira Knightly’s fashion sense. And I like Skylar Grey’s take on dark.

 

ARE YOU A PLANNED OR SPONTANEOUS DRESSER?
In my head, I’m a planned dresser, but the way it actually works out is last minute and spontaneous.

 

SOMETHING THAT DOES NOT WORK FOR YOU BUT YOU WISH IT DID
Nine inch heels. It’s not that I wish I could wear them, it’s more like when I wear them, I wish I didn’t topple over.

 

YOUR CURRENT WARDROBE FAVOURITE
Combat boots by All Saints.

 

FITNESS MANTRA
Stay calm and drink coconut water.

 

YOU’RE PASSIONATE ABOUT
Good theatre.

 

===========

 

SANA REZWAN
For treasuring chiffons and leather equally

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
Minimal with a rock chic attitude.

 

A FASHION NO-NO
Tight mini dresses showing excess cleavage.

 

FITNESS MANTRA
Yoga three times a week combined with walking twice a week.

 

A FASHION SECRET
A pair of skinny jeans and ankle boots always work for me – night or day.

 

A FASHIONABLE MOMENT LAST YEAR
A one-shoulder 3.1 Phillip Lim dress that I wore to the launch of Maison.

 

DRESSING RULE BEFORE LEAVING HOME
I never walk out of the house without applying kohl in my eyes.

 

PRECIOUS INHERITANCES
My grandmother’s very trend-forward sari that I cherish to this date, which is an electric blue chiffon with badla embroidery.

 

WARDROBE STAPLES
A pair of heels from Giuseppe Zanotti, jeans from Acne, jersey basics from Alexander Wang and a leather jacket from Rick Owens.

 

FAVOURITE DESIGNERS
Cedric Charlier, Azzedine Alaia, Rodarte, Celine and 3.1 Phillip Lim are a few favourites.

 

AN OVERDONE TREND
Bling is no more in!

 

A RECENT SPLURGE BUY
A pair of black suede ankle booties from Giuseppe Zanotti with a gold metal heel.

 

A RECENT BARGAIN BUY
Leather leggings from Topshop.

 

THINGS YOU ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT
Food, art and my cat, Alex.

 

====================

 

PRATIMA BHATIA
For having a staple for every occasion

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
I don’t have one – imagine losing the spontaneity because you have to conform to a definition!

 

A FASHION SECRET
Really high heels, Mumtaz Deluxe Kajal, Jo Malone Red Roses, a blow dry and I could rule the world.

 

YOUR CURRENT WARDROBE FAVOURITE
A Maison Martin Margiela dress with a feather vest – it’s fashion foie gras! Also a yummy colour-block cami dress from Marni and an Abu-Sandeep sari with a peek-a-boo blouse that I wore to the launch of the duo’s India Fantastique.

 

YOUR WARDROBE TREASURES
My Jay Ahr gown, a Jason Wu Daphne satchel in ivory and Tabitha Simmons pumps. A rangkaat sari from Benaras from my trousseau, my grandmother-in-law’s heirloom laadli necklace with Basra pearls and Sabbia Rosa lingerie.

 

A RECENT SPLURGE BUY
A diamond ring from the early 1900s from a vintage boutique Au Vase de Delft on Rue Cambon in Paris.

 

A RECENT BARGAIN BUY
A 1960s fawn and coral Emilio Pucci kimono I got in a little boutique in Rome. And a jewel of a petit point little clutch I found in Chor Bazaar for a steal.

 

YOUR FAVOURITE FASHION ERAS
Today. Fashion is most empowered today – there are no rules and you can borrow bits from past eras. Imagine living with rules that dictated a whole era – how depressing!

 

DRESSING RULE FOLLOWED BEFORE LEAVING HOME
Madonna, a glass of Moët and a mambo in my walk-in closet.

 

ARE YOU A PLANNED OR SPONTANEOUS DRESSER?
I decide in the shower and it’s madness thereafter. Unless of course it’s a black tie or a sari moment. Then I plan.

 

================

 

DRASHTA SARVAIYA
For her no-nonsense attitude to style

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
Cat eye liner.

 

A FASHION NO-NO
Underwear over pants.

 

A FASHION SECRET – SOMETHING THAT WORKS FOR YOU LIKE A LUCKY CHARM
The ’50s silhouette.

 

YOUR CURRENT WARDROBE FAVOURITE
Drashta’s printed pantsuit.

 

A RECENT SPLURGE BUY
An iPad.

 

A RECENT BARGAIN BUY
None!

 

ARE YOU A PLANNED OR SPONTANEOUS DRESSER
Spontaneous!

 

AN OVERDONE TREND
Hipster glasses.

 

YOUR FASHION SOUL CITY
Paris.

 

WARDROBE STAPLES
Trousers.

 

WARDROBE TREASURES
Currency quilted winter coats from my AW2010 line.

 

==============

 

SUHANI PITTIE
For always thinking vintage and always looking inspired

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
Relaxed. Generally layered with a waistcoat or jacket or something that completely offsets it. Lots of whites and blacks. Clean and crisp. But almost always embracing India in some way.

 

A FASHION NO-NO
Skimpy sari blouses with all that bling!

 

A FASHION SECRET
An A&T waistcoat with my jewellery, laced with oodles of sense of humour!

 

YOUR CURRENT WARDROBE FAVOURITE
Two. An amazing embroidered waistcoat from Anamika Khanna that I wear with everything! And a really old charms necklace that my grandmother gave me. The charms include a lantern, horse carriage, cannon, a mini clock and a mini pen. The craftsmanship gives me goosebumps!

 

RECENT SPLURGE BUYS
I’m not a shopper. But I did buy nearly eleven kilos of Rajasthani jewellery from Jodhpur last year. Also recently, eleven books on architecture, two on bar designing, three on light design and one on the future of car design.

 

RECENT BARGAIN BUY
An enamelled eagle ring from a mela in Hyderabad. It’s brilliant!

 

FAVOURITE FASHION ERAS
Men’s fashion from the Regency era. So dapper with their cravats and tailcoats.

 

DRESSING RULE FOLLOWED BEFORE LEAVING HOME
To always check myself sideways. I once walked around an entire sangeet with my skirt not properly worn. Someone asked me if I was wearing a tutu!

 

CRAZY ABOUT
Vintage things. I can spend all my money on old fabrics and old garments and history books. And also on Anamika’s clothes, but those I never have to pay for! (That’s what sisters are for.) I’m also passionate about my DSLR and Casio watches.

 

==============

 

KULSUM SHADAB
For making pretty chic

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
I tend to focus on simple elegant silhouettes and add a statement piece of jewellery that always stands out.

 

A FASHION NO-NO
Never wear an outfit that’s smaller than your size and never go for a look that isn’t your age.

 

FITNESS MANTRA
Fitness is a way of life for me: I combine my 10k run with weight training and yoga.

 

A FASHION SECRET
My smile! It instantly brightens my face.

 

DRESSING RULE FOLLOWED BEFORE LEAVING HOME
I always make sure I’m wearing comfortable shoes.

 

PRECIOUS INHERITANCES
My mom’s emerald necklace, which was passed on to her by my grandmother – it’s priceless. Also, a beautiful traditional waistband from my mother-in-law, which was passed on to her by her mother-in-law…it’s timeless.

 

WARDROBE STAPLES
A great fitting white shirt – it’s classic chic and goes with everything, a pair of well-fitted pants, a timeless black dress, a pair of sexy yet comfortable shoes… and bold accessories. They always give your outfit ammunition – for me it is a bracelet and a standout handbag.

 

TOP DESIGNERS
International designers are Alexander McQueen, Emilio Pucci, Issa and Dries Van Noten. Among the Indian designers, my favourite is Gaurav Gupta.

 

AN OVERDONE TREND
Juicy Couture.

 

A RECENT SPLURGE BUY
A stunning pair of rose-cut earrings.

 

A RECENT BARGAIN BUY
A Chloe party bag from Maison.

 

THINGS YOU ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT
My family, exploring new cultures, food and fashion.

 

=============

 

NIAMAT BAKSHI
For knowing the difference between day and night dressing

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
I have two very distinct signature styles. Day: quite conservative; slim-fit jeans, flats and well-fitted button down shirts. Night: I love to ‘dress up’; body-conscious dresses that have sharp silhouettes and very high heels to finish off each look.

 

A FASHION NO-NO
Wearing stockings with sandals.

 

FASHION FAUX PAS
Trainers with cocktail dresses à la Kristen Stewart.

 

YOUR CURRENT WARDROBE FAVOURITE
A Haider Ackerman gold peplum jacket.

 

A DRESSING RULE FOLLOWED BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME
As Coco Chanel said, ‘Less is always more’. Before I leave the house, I look in the mirror and remove one accessory to ensure that I am not over doing it.

 

AN OVER-DONE TREND
Sequinned shorts, sheer baby-doll tops, metallic mini skirts and beaded jeans are all done to death.

 

ANY CHANGE IN YOUR DRESSING IN THE LAST YEAR
I don’t think there has been any significant change. But, I have started to wear more prints than I used to. I usually wore monochrome or two-tone dresses but I have started experimenting with designers such as Peter Pilotto and Michael Van Der Ham who are known for their digital/floral prints.

 

A FASHIONABLE MOMENT LAST YEAR
It was at a fashion show organised by the Taj for the revival of the Benarasi sari. I very rarely wear saris and here I wore a very traditional, hand-woven ethnic one!

 

YOUR WARDROBE STAPLES
Balenciaga leather jackets in black and brown, Lanvin ballerina flats (cannot have enough!), J Brand jeans in all colours, Yves Saint Laurent blazer.

 

A WARDROBE TREASURE
My wedding lehenga designed by Rohit Bal which was a deep red and covered in salma and crystal work.

 

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KALKI KOECHLIN
For establishing different looks for her on-screen and off-screen persona

 

YOUR SIGNATURE STYLE
High-waist loose trousers, T-shirt, waistcoat, brockets and hat (basically Annie Hall).

 

A FASHION EXPERIMENT THAT WENT WRONG
As a teenager, I wore really tight leopard print pants…I thought they were really cool. Disaster!

 

A FASHION SECRET – SOMETHING THAT WORKS FOR YOU LIKE A LUCKY CHARM
A little black dress I found in a flea market in London for two pounds. I’ve worn it on red carpets and to formal dinners and it always works.

 

A FASHIONABLE MOMENT LAST YEAR
I had to make an effort for Cannes this year…I wore Dior and Sabyasachi: kind of represented my French and I
ndian background.

 

A RECENT SPLURGE BUY
A dress by Thierry Colson.

 

A RECENT BARGAIN BUY
H&M shoes on sale for 15 pounds.

 

FAVOURITE FASHION ERAS
Twenties’ flapper girls and the ’60s.

 

STYLISH FILMS
A Single Man, Pretty Woman, À bout de souffle, Sin City.

 

ARE YOU A PLANNED OR A SPONTANEOUS DRESSER?
Mostly spontaneous, except when I’m very nervous about an occasion. Then I plan from head to foot.

 

DRESSING RULE FOLLOWED BEFORE LEAVING HOME
Must carry lip balm, flat shoes and sunglasses.

 

FAVOURITE DESIGNERS
Sabyasachi, Nimish Shah, Preeti S Kapoor, Marc Jacobs, Thierry Colson.

 

Verve’s Bollywood Style Awards 2012

12 Sunday Feb 2012

Posted by in Fashion & Style, Publication: Verve Magazine

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Published: Verve Magazine, Features

Indian cinema has proven with its recent offerings that it can confidently step up to the plate and serve style that matches the character and mood of the movie rather than cook up a half-baked stew of fashion and metre. As Verve pointed out last year, couture has found a definite place in Indian cinema, whether through a subtle pair of designer shades or through a statement handbag. The good news is high fashion isn’t being used as candy floss on the big screen – it’s playing a specific role. Costumiers are equally willing to turn to village threads for authenticity, or design garish, bordering-on-the-vulgar outfits for a real-life character, as they are to doll up their actors in an international label. While there may not be any path-breaking moves here, costume design 2011 has been authentic, stylish and character-oriented. It sets the stage to push the envelope further, away from the sensationalist and dysfunctional ensembles of the past. Sitanshi Talati-Parikh picks out four movies that impressed with their true-to-the-grain styling, and Verve recreates these looks with young actors Sarah Jane Dias and Sahil Shroff.


AUTHENTIC RECREATION: MAUSAM
Lovleen Bains for Sonam Kapoor and Shahid Kapoor

Mausam01

For the clothes to take a backseat for a change and let real-life fashionista Sonam Kapoor’s character shine is no easy feat. Playing a simple Kashmiri refugee in Punjab, she faces Shahid Kapoor, a small town boy, in Mausam. You find the costumes hold their weight in their sheer subtlety – from the gaucheness of Shahid’s college blazer to the sophisticated tailoring of his air force pilot outfit; his character transitions in the very seams. Sonam’s transformation from youthful girl to a mature woman is rooted in her ethnicity: even as she dons international garb when living abroad, the Anamika Khanna-crafted red gown worn in Scotland has Indian embroidery on it, and the Kashmiri embroidered shawls are reminiscent of her Indianness.

 

Shades change with seasons and locations: the young lovers’ innocence is portrayed with the use of whites and creams in a wintry Punjab, picking up earthy hues along the way, through geographical displacement and character maturity. For instance, Sonam’s pale Kashmiri kurtas and dupattas soon reflect the happier shades of Punjab. When the characters meet again, in the church in Scotland, they are both, once more, in white. “Colour is almost a leitmotif in the film,” says Bains. Intentionally imperfect hand-stitching on Shahid’s college blazer, ageing of clothes to show wear, a fixed wardrobe with repetitions (Shahid had one pair of jeans through the first season except for the song sequences), researching the right length for Sonam’s kurtas, having Shahid’s sweaters woven by Punjabi village folk over gossip sessions and sarson ka saag, there is a thread of authenticity and rootedness in Lovleen Bains’ costume design of Mausam that is devoid of the trappings of Bollywood sensationalism.


URBAN SASS: ZINDAGI NA MILEGI DOBARA
Arjun Bhasin for Hrithik Roshan, Farhan Akhtar, Katrina Kaif, Abhay Deol and Kalki Koechlin

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If last year’s Aisha had Dior handbags floating on every arm, 2011’s ZNMD makes ‘Bagwati’ a character – with her own position in the plotline. And the ostrich Hermes Kelly is styled with shades and a scarf occasionally, when the weather requires it. This is probably the first time fashion is used as a plot device in Indian cinema – an obvious barb at Kalki Koechlin’s prissy couture- conscious Natasha. Her blunt cut with sharp bangs, kitten heels, Chanel jacket and designer-everything says more than the pinched expression on her face ever could. The look is reminiscent of Molly-Ringwald-in-Pretty-in-Pink – except that unlike Ringwald’s second-hand, hand-stitched attire, Koechlin/Natasha’s clothes are an expensive combination of fresh-off-the-ramp and couture classics. In sharp contrast – as each character forms a fashion foil to the other – Katrina Kaif’s easy-going Laila philosophises in flowing dresses and tresses, easy-breezy beach wear and minimal makeup. Even a basic transformation into biker-chick requires her to wear a lightly ruffled-edged corset over jeans, always feminine and sexy.

 

With the boys, each actor’s personal tastes and style are visible. Abhay Deol has a naturally leggy, geeky look. The design takes it a step further for his character, Kabir, with over-the-top nerd spectacles, quirky shirts – think birds-taking-flight – teamed up with sneakers and a backpack that he hoists defensively when grilled about his life’s choices. Hrithik Roshan’s beefy look is toned down with buttoned shirts as the audience can’t be allowed to question how Arjun, a work-obsessed investment banker finds time to go to the gym while ignoring his girlfriend. (Of course, the toned shirtless body on the hoardings makes for a happy box office draw.) As the story unfolds, he loosens up, and so do his hair and styling. Farhan Akhtar is pushed further into a character scripted for him: quirky, philosophical poet, entirely boho chic. Aviator shades, loose pants, kurtas and long-sleeved t-shirts teemed with a random neck scarf and hat that he sports, on occasion, even outside the film.

 

Every look comes together cohesively, billed directly to director, Zoya Akhtar’s vivid visualization and stylist Arjun Bhasin’s recreation: detailed character-oriented styling and couture that slides into everyday life. We just wish it could’ve been a little more experimental – there is no room for a subtle overflow like a preppy artist, for instance. While ZNMD’s picture-perfect styling serves to
perpetuate stereotypes rather than demolish them, it does so rather appealingly.


YOUTH CULT: ROCKSTAR
Aki Narula for Ranbir Kapoor

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Polish artist Grzegorz Domaradzki set the stage with his poster sketch of Rockstar. You couldn’t help but know that the look and performance would be iconic and the movie didn’t disappoint – at least on those counts. Tight-assed Janardhan (Ranbir Kapoor) in his too-fitted jeans, too-snug sweater, too-crisp shirts and too-short hair is an obvious exaggeration to the transformation that becomes rock star Jordan. Free of inhibitions and full of angst, Jordan dresses exactly the way he feels – unfettered, irreverent, defiant and often unwashed. As he moves to his own tune, treating societal norms, business conventions and geographical boundaries in the same dismissive manner that he does anything that comes in the way of his single-minded vision, he becomes an unwilling anti-authoritarian cult figure. And to that effect, he redefines the Nehru cap as a fashion ploy. Even as detractors and politicos may shift uneasily, Kapoor makes it work.

 

What stand out are his wardrobe staples (often repeated in the film for realistic styling): the snazzy anti-establishment military jacket, the Qawwal jackets – a call to his Sufi leanings, the mocking feather-topped Sadda Haq police shirt, all teamed with the clever individualistic version of loose patiala pants and kurtas – ultimate comfort wear. Love the fact that there is no leather or biker rock look – so often over done and stereotypical. What impresses is the refreshing take on a rock star. Packaged with Kapoor’s long, unkempt hair, accessorised with a chain around the neck that houses his first broken guitar string and guitar pick along with other souvenirs, Aki Narula, director Imtiaz Ali and Ranbir Kapoor have visualised possibly the iconic look of the year, to be imitated and popularised by young college kids until the next grunge look rocks its way in.

 


RETRO RENDERING: THE DIRTY PICTURE
Niharika Khan for Vidya Balan

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Even before the film released, Vidya Balan’s bosom encased in Niharika Khan’s suggestive designs made for feverish conversations and post the film’s release, one hears of ‘Ooh la la’ saris becoming popular commercially. If Vidya Balan has the mettle to take on an author-backed sensational role of this kind and further it with panache, then Khan has done more than her job to ensure that Balan’s character stays suitably unclothed throughout. For the racy protagonist, the costumes of the ’80s south are garish, loud and boldly uncouth – as the script intends it. The camera makes love to Vidya Balan’s unfettered body, and the clothes caress her intentionally untoned figure: you watch Balan attempting to button up her jeans over her flabby stomach with an enviably unconcerned attitude towards her generous midriff.

 

From the tight short dresses, the pelvis-hugging flared pants, to the cleavage-baring cholis and retro shirts, everything shrieks for attention. Where Bobby’s Dimple Kapadia and Once Upon a Time in Mumbai’s Prachi Desai conveyed youthful, shy sensuousness with their midriff baring, polka-dot front-tie shirts, Balan is unabashedly lusty and in-your-face with her wantonness in similar outfits. And yet, caught in a moment of vulnerability, Balan’s character, Silk, makes the walk of shame the morning after being dumped for the wife, attempting to shrink into the folds of her red sequined gown; but in the harsh morning light, it’s too tight for comfort or respect.

 

Ironically, for Silk, it’s all synthetic and the glitz of sequined make-believe. From the dull, aged South Indian cottons of Reshma’s village wear, and the lamé and brightness of Silk the superstar, to the unflattering wardrobe of an alcoholic, the clothes define every turn in the script. As Khan points out, “The film is about the character’s relationship with her clothing and body – and Balan is brave, far braver than even I could be, to take on this role.” These are the clothes of a woman whose attitude speaks more than her wardrobe, and her wardrobe merely perpetuates her freewheeling attitude. Whether Silk tries to hide or take the world in her stride, her clothes reveal her spirit and character – loud, brash, irreverent, attention-seeking, ambitious and vulnerable – and always exposed.